Friday, October 26, 2012

San Blas Islands

Captain Rick rows into the Port Captain's office at Porvenir, San Blas, Panama

The hotel at Porvenir, San Blas

We towed a father & son to their island at Chichime after they had harvested Yucca and bananas from their mainland farm. The gave us a shell made into a horn.

Visiting the San Blas Islands was a dream for me as I have always loved the molas sewn by the women in this matriarchal indigenous group of Kunas. The Kuna people live inside the borders of Panama but rule their land independently of the Panamanian government. We spent 2 weeks sitting at anchor in the Chichime area. We loved the people, beaches and snorkeling. Rick practiced several ways to cook lobster as they were $2 each for small ones and sold daily fromt he dug out canoes.

The smaller of the 2 islands at Chichime

The southwest corner of the larger island. 10 minutes to walk the periphery of this island.

A highlight of this area for me is to see the molas. This is Venezio who is a famous mola maker. It is unusual to have a male sew the molas but he is a true fiber artist. See the huge pile of molas and he wanted us to see every one before we decided which ones to buy. He is very proud of his work. He told me how he made a special mola for his mother with a dugout canoe, a male and female Kuna and fruits in the canoe. This gift to his mother took him 10 days to sew. The molas are several layers of fabric and the design is made using reverse applique technique. The traditional colors are burgundy, orange and black. They like bright colors. Fine workmanship is seen in the tiny, close stitches executed on the molas. Several Kuna are making molas with fewer layers and in designs that appeal to tourists. These take less time to make and most tourists don't notice the difference in technique. I love the traditional designs that an artist like Venezio makes. His nephew takes him to the visiting boats and the occasional cruise ship that comes into the area. Venezio loved snoball and wanted to trade molas for her.

we kayaked everyday
words aren't necessary


view of the anchorage from the large island








the kuna sail their dugout canoes using ropes no bigger than twine

Rick loved the lobster. We had lobster pasta, omelets, salads daily for over 10 days.


There is a small hotel with 4 huts and a restaurant for guests on the large island.

roofing material to improve the roofs before the easterly trade winds start blowing in December


They sell the cruisers beer. They have 3 solar panels mounted on sticks on the top of the huts for refrigeration.

molas under the plastic of the tables

Huts that the guests stay in. We met a German couple that were staying there and diving the reef.  Hammocks are the beds inside the huts and there is a little chest to keep your stuff in.

machete is the tool of the day


The small island also has a bench on the beach, a solar panel and serves cold beer for $1.50.

I drank mine on the beach

the "bar"

lobster eyes


Dick and Maureen S/V Blue

We kayaked to an island with 2 trees and a shipwreck on it. The snorkeling was great. Rick followed a huge octopus. It sat on a rock coiling it tentacles up all around it's head and making it's eyes look really big. We were impressed. Rick says the tentacles were 1 1/2" diameter and 2 feet long.

3 kuna boys fishing and begging for "carmalitos" (candy).

conch diver teaching me how to clean them

one conch!!
We had a wonderful time in Chichime, San Blas. We didn't move around to the many other anchorages because Rick had developed a relationship with the lobster divers and it was just so wonderful right there. We heard from friends that the other anchorages were more crowded anyway....

Monday, October 15, 2012

The time has come to go out into the Caribbean Sea

 Out time at Shelter Bay has been filled with good times with and great friends that we will see again as we sail north from Panama. But now we must leave Shelter Bay Marina to explore the islands of the Kuna Yala Indians, San Blas Islands. Below is Pepe', he is our sailboat guardian who sits at the entrance to Talaria. He says the boat repairs are done and it is time to stow everything below, throw the lines off and go sailing. Pepe' was given to us by Karen and Isaac and he is a loyal little duck having sailed with us from Seattle.

Thursday, October 4, 2012

San Lorenzo Fort

The Chagres River
 San Lorenzo Fort is at the mouth of the Chagres River and only 9 KM from Shelter Bay Marina. We rode bikes to the site with Steve and Marie from S/V Saben. The old fort is cool and there are archeologists working on it.















stuck in the moat around the fort


only barrel of a gun I want to look down



Howler monkeys in the trees
Howler monkeys, green parrots and Capuchin monkeys in the trees along the ride out to the fort. This area has a beautiful tropical forest and wildlife. The howler monkeys really screech in the mornings and the evenings. We can hear them from the marina as they call out to other families of howlers to mark out their territory.